The Business of Fashion

Q&A: A conversation with Susie from Style Bubble

Susie Bubble is one of the most recognisable, most respected and most widely-read fashion bloggers in the world. Her quirky style suggestions, honest reviews and friendly voice make her blog a must-read for thousands of women everyday.  To use Malcolm Gladwell's vocabulary from his best-selling book, The Tipping Point, Susie is the ultimate maven, and the blog has provided the perfect platform from which to share her expertise.

Not surprisingly, fashion brands, online fashion media and ecommerce retailers have been looking to get in on the action. Banner ads have recently begun to appear on her site from the likes of Net-a-Porter and Diesel. Susie is regularly invited to conferences and events so others can draw upon her expertise.  Almost by accident, this London-based style expert has turned her passion for fashion into a bonafide business. 

The BoF caught up with Susie to understand a bit more about the genesis of the Style Bubble, get her views on the business of blogging, and find out the pros and cons of monetising a fashion blog. 

Marc Jacobs: Getting into the fray

In what is what is likely a first in the fashion industry when it comes to the blogosphere, Marc Jacobs has joined the ongoing online debate raging about his supposed row with Suzy Menkes, the highly regarded fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune.

In his comment on Cathy Horyn's On the Runway blog, Jacobs says:

I did NOT stick my tongue out at Suzy Menkes……I pulled a stupid face with my tongue out in happiness for being done with what has been a great but most stressful season for me. I am not stupid, childish or a vindictive person….I had prior to the show left a silly t-shirt and a nice note for Suzy on her seat. Why would I do anything to further upset her? Right after a show!!?? Cathy and all else reading this, I am surprised that anyone who knows me at all think that I am that petty or stupid! Anyone who has ever been on a stage would know you can’t actually see the audience. I made a face at no one in particular….I didn’t have a clue as to who was sitting there. Come on guys, give me a break!!!!!

Jacobs' decision to respond to the backlash in a public forum, as opposed to using the normal channels of publicists and press releases, was a smart one. You can only respond to the blogosphere by going straight to the heart of the storm and engaging the community. Marc Jacobs' choice to do this on Horyn's blog also shows how On the Runway has become a formidable community with its own voice in the industry.   And the response from the community has generally been very positive.

Fashion 2.0: A cut, sew and blog above

When Malcolm Harris, one of the designers behind the Katsumi & Malcolm label which was once financially backed by Madonna, wanted to launch a new brand, he knew he needed to do something singularly different.

Harris is the man behind Cut, Sew & Blog which has got young fashion insiders and the blogosphere buzzing and is already spawning internet spoofs. By turning to web 2.0 technologies and using sites like Myspace and Youtube to promote his new label, Malcolm may be the first fashion designer ever to build his entire business strategy around the use of the Internet, as opposed to treating it as a cosmetic afterthought. He recently answered a few questions from the Business of Fashion to explain the rationale behind this strategy.

Street Clash: Aggregating global street style

I recently came across Street Clash, the innovative global street style competition which is creating a buzz in the fashion blogosphere. The blog brings together the Sartorialist-style photos from cities around the world, pitting Melbourne against Kiev against San Francisco against London...all vying for the honour of being declared the city with coolest street style, voted on by the Street Clash's readers.

It's the second round of the competition, and Paris and London are already out of the running, demonstrating that the best style isn't necessarily in the established fashion capitals. For example, I wasn't too surprised to see my old hometown, Montréal, one of the most fashionable cities in the world, beat my current hometown, London. But, when I saw that Perth beat Paris, I was shocked. A friend recently told me that Perth is the most isolated city (with a population greater than 1m residents) in the world.  Maybe isolation breeds creativity?

Everyone's talking about: Fashion blogging

One amazing thing about the fashion blogosphere is that it is global, in the truest sense of the word. Major brands and media everywhere are sitting up and taking notice of this phenomenon, and smart journalists are questioning how this will change the industry going forward.

Candy Soo of Hong Kong's pre-eminent English language daily, The South China Morning Post, recently published an article on the growing influence of fashion blogs and how the industry is (slowly) coming to terms with it. The article interviews bloggers behind several fashion blogs, including The Business of Fashion, and handbag designer Rafe Totengco talks about how he uses his blog to promote his brand and solicit feedback from his clientele.

Style.com: Sartorialising

WWD reports today that Style.com has concluded an agreement to sell advertising on the Sartorialist blog maintained by Scott Schuman, a former fashion industry staffer who left a fashion sales showroom to create one of the best known blogs in the fashion blogosphere.

Women's Wear Daily said:

A fashion label may get the best endorsement when its wares show up on a well-dressed city dweller photographed for fashion industry veteran Scott Schuman's popular blog The Sartorialist. But for those who want more direct brand promotion, Style.com and Men.style.com will begin to sell ads for Thesartorialist.blogspot.com beginning Sept. 1....

Cathy Horyn: Video on the Runway

It seems every few weeks I come across some interesting quotes from or video clips of Cathy Horyn of the New York Times. As one of the first major fashion critics to pen a regular blog, it's not surprising that she believes in the importance of blogging to the fashion industry. Regular readers know that this is a recurring topic on the BoF, especially after what I heard from some industry people at the Harvard Business School Retail and Luxury Conference earlier this year.

This is a video I came across where Julie Fredrickson of Coutorture attempts to interview Ms. Horyn on the topic of Web 2.0 and fashion. I use the word "attempts" intentionally. As you will see, by the end of the interview, Cathy's journalistic instincts come out and she can't resist turning the tables on Julie and ends up asking about her experience in (not) gaining access to shows at New York Fashion Week. The video pre-dates the launch of Cathy's blog at the New York Times, On the Runway, but many of its key messages still ring true. 

Links of the week: Ecko, Underwear, Blow, Fashion Inc

CIT: Behind the Business - Mark Ecko
I enjoyed this series of video interviews with Mark Ecko, the graffiti artist-turned fashion entrepreneur,  who  founded  *ecko unltd which is now a multi-brand fashion and apparel company with combined annual revenues of $1.2b. Mark also shares nuggets of  insight at eckolog, a blog on running a creative business.

New York Times: Coloured undies
This is an article which shows how finding and developing an underserved, ignored or altogether empty market niche can be one of the best ways to build fashion and apparel brands. Novelty underwear, in bright patterns and colours, from the likes of Ginch Gonch, Aussie Bum and American Apparel, is a rapidly growing market segment, says the article by David Colman. These zany briefs are capturing share in the $1.1b mens knit underwear market, possibly as high as 50%, in a market, that up until now, has always been reserved for tighty-whiteys.

International Herald Tribune: Isabella Blow, Fashion Loses an Inventive Icon
The accolades have been pouring in (and the rumour mill has been working overtime) since the death of Isabella Blow, one of the fashion world's true eccentrics, earlier this week. While there were many obituaries written, I found Suzy Menkes' tribute the most honest and accurate. That Isabella Blow was, in and of herself,  a "work of art", was the highest of compliments from fashion's reigning Queen of the critics.

Portfolio: Fashion Inc.
There's some interesting fashion and business commentary, with the occasional gossipy diversion, at Fashion Inc, one of the new blogs that has emerged with the launch of Portfolio magazine, which is focused on various parts of the business world. Lauren Crowe, a former writer for DNR and one of my favourites, Time Style and Design, is the blogger behind Fashion Inc.  The latest news from Lauren is that Jil Sander may be on the block again, following Change Capital Partners' investment only 2 years ago.

Photo courtesy of the New York Times.

Fashion Television: Sartorialist, Blogging, Ford and Mentorship

In Canada, many young aspiring fashionistas cut their teeth on Fashion Television (or FT), hosted by Jeanne Beker. I accidentally happened upon the site recently and came across a veritable treasure trove of video content that is relevant to some of the topics recently debated and discussed on The Business of Fashion:

Fashion blogging
Any regular readers of this blog know that I have been a big fan of the Sartorialist, aka Scott Schuman, since I first came across his site almost two years ago. His was the first blog of any sort to really catch my attention because there was something really powerful about seeing clothes that are styled by real people on the street. It brings the clothes to life in a way that high-fashion editorial sometimes cannot.  FT does a great video profile of Scott that allows you to see how The Sartorialist came to be, explains how Scott thinks about his work and reveals that The Sartorialist is now receiving over 1.3 million page views per month. [You can see my own Sartorialist moment here]

The Sartorialist blog also opened my eyes to the potential of what the democracy of blogging could do for a fashion business, particularly emerging businesses with limited profiles and advertising budgets.  What if, for example, you could mouse over a sweater you like in one of Scott's photos and could discover who designed the sweater and where you could buy it online through phototagging (just like you can tag people in your photos on Facebook.com)? Its Fashion 2.0 folks and its only going to get more interesting.

There is a lot more discussion of the fashion blogosphere is in this video overview narrated by Jeanne Beker, highlighting the pros and cons of the fashion blogging phenomenon, which some say has resulted in a reported 2 million fashion blogs. Jeanne speaks to some of the world's leading fashion critics  (Cathy Horyn of the New York Times, Kate Betts from Time magazine, and Colin McDowell from the Sunday Times) to get their views on what blogging has done for them. She also speakss to the (love-him-or-hate-him) blogstar Perez Hilton.

Tom Ford's new store on Madison Avenue
FT also gives us a peek into the much-discussed Madison Avenue flagship recently opened by Tom Ford, and heavily criticised by some observers for being too exclusive and too expensive. Tom Ford gives Jeanne a personal tour of the store which provides some of Tom's own thinking on what he was trying to accomplish with the store. Jeanne does go through the price points in the store, which are truly astronomical,  including personalised underwear for $75.

Mentoring emerging designers
When emerging designers talk to me about setting up their own businesses, I often encourage them to try to get some time working in the studio of an established design house first.  This video outlines the mentorship of young proteges including Yves Saint Laurent (mentored by Christian Dior) to Francisco Costa (mentored by Calvin Klein) to Narcisco Rodriguez (mentored by Donna Karan). You can see how some of the industry's biggest names of today started their careers as apprentices to some of the biggest names from yesteryear.

© 2007 Copyright Imran Amed - The Business of Fashion. 
Scott Shuman photo courtesy of FT.

Links of the week: Tom Ford, Fashion 2.0, Kate Moss for Top Shop and Chloe's future

Top fashion business links for the week of 30 April, 2007:

New York Times - No Store is a Hero to its Valet
Either the New York Times really has it in for Tom Ford (perhaps he spurned and interview request or declined an editors request for a discount?) or there is a real issue with Tom Ford's new eponymous business. First, Cathy Horyn criticized Ford's new business for being too niche and too grand (after Ford had provided her with a private tour - you can't buy this woman's vote) and today, in its Critical Shopper feature, Horacio Silva pans the store for confusing "exclusionary for exclusive."

Modabot.de - Brave New Internet World - How the Internet is changing the Fashion Universe
Fashion 2.0 is a hot topic. The Business of Fashion recently advocated that big fashion brands should consider the Internet an avenue that they should be cruising down, albeit with necessary caution. Over at Modabot.de, the Berlin-based fashion blog for avantgarde fashionistas, they delve into the topic with vigour, providing a 360 degree view of the fashion blogosphere and some of the new social shopping sites that are bound to change the way consumers shop forever, if not now, then certainly in the years to come.

Style.com - Gathering Moss
Sarah Mower at Style.com provides a witty and always insightful peek into the Kate Moss for Top Shop event this week. This is no small business. Philip Green has managed to make this line a pilot project for expanding Top Shop to other markets, particularly the US. Not only will the line bow at Top Shops around the world, it will also be sold at Colette in Paris, Barney's in America and 10 Corso Como in Milan. Mr. Green was even on hand to provide some sales assistance himself. Clearly, this is a business he is counting on.

The Daily Telegraph - Farewell to Floaty and Flirty
Is this a harbinger of Chloe's fast fall, after its fast rise on the fashion scene? At the Daily Telegraph, they have joined the chorus of people questioning the design direction taken by new Chloe's new Creative Director, Paulo Melim Andersson. One can definitely appreciate a bit of Marni heritage in the collection he showed for A/W 2007, but the question is whether Chloe loyalists are brand faithful or design faithful. As the Telegraph points out, if it is the latter, then there are plenty of other places for girly girls to look for the look that Chloe has become known for over the past 10 years. Clearly, for a large fashion house like Chloe, a change in creative direction like this should be considered carefully as part of a broader strategic exercise. This is no less important to a fashion business than an airline choosing to fly to a new market (did you know Virgin flies to Nairobi?), a cola company changing their age old formulation (New Coke, anyone?), or Colonel Sanders tweaking the KFC recipe (do you like your chicken more crispy?).