Are London fashionistas living in a bubble?
There was no sign of global economic turmoil last night as party-goers let loose after
a busy day of shows during an even busier night of events. Following strong showings by Giles and Christopher Kane, there was the opening of the fabulous new Dunhill flagship (see here for our review of the sister store in Tokyo), an
exhibition of stunning fashion photography by Mary McCartney, and the
biggest party of London Fashion Week hosted by Giles Deacon and
Swarovski (with a huge Giles cartoon ghost made completely of flowers, pictured above).
The mood is certainly more sombre across the pond in New York. And, if there was any remaining doubt as to whether the U.S.A. is entering (or is already in) a recession, that doubt has been erased just as quickly as the market capitalisation of some of the world's most famous investment banks.
So, while many expert observers don't know what is going to happen next, The Business of Fashion caught up with noted futurist Faith Popcorn of the Faith Popcorn Brain Reserve to get the lowdown on 'recession culture', coping with the downturn, and the winners and losers.
BoF: What
is the recession culture and why has it become pervasive in the minds of
American consumers? How long will it last?
Recession
Culture, A Mindset of Making Do With Less: Economists haven’t yet declared that we’re in
an actual recession, but Americans certainly feel like they are and are living
that way. We’re shifting from bling and flash to no-logo apparel and
accessories; from having the latest and greatest of everything to learning to
live a Simple Life. We’re scrimping and saving where and when we can.
The End
of Recession Culture, The Big Question: How long this recession culture will last is
what people are asking themselves and each other. There seems to be no light at
the end of this tunnel. And we may not have an end-date until we see who is
elected President and what that person’s first priorities are once he’s in
office.
BoF: Given
that fashion and luxury products are more of a "want", than a "need"
(well, for most people anyway) how do you think this recession mentality will
affect the purchases of fashion and apparel?
People will
have to prioritize their spending, choosing the heating oil bill over the “it” bag,
filling the gas tank over filling their closets.
They will
still want to look their best, and shopping will still make them feel better in
this tough time. (Small Indulgences) But when they do make fashion purchases,
they will be more careful, selecting apparel and accessories that can be worn
multiple ways for multiple seasons and/or items that are extra-special.
BoF: Can
fashion companies do anything to combat this mentality?
Offer
Sustainable Luxury: The
muted logo-free look is widely regarded as the standard-bearer for a new kind
of luxury: subtle and with longevity. Luxury
consumers don’t want fashion that screams luxury; it’s ‘irresponsible’ during a
recession, but they want something durable and worth the splurge.
Offer
the Right Price Point: Or A Very Special Garment: People still want to look their best and make
themselves feel better especially in bad times. (Small Indulgences) The right price point is essential, if you can offer
a ‘special’ garment at a competitive price great, but if you can’t, then the
garment needs to be that much more ‘special’ (EGOnomics).
Offer
Online Purchase and Return Options: The high gas prices are changing the way people
shop. Consumers will want to save gas
and buying online is the best way to do that.
Offer
Exceptional Customer Service: If and when people choose to venture to the store, customer service is
key – especially if price points are on the high side.
BoF: Who
will be the winners in this kind of situation?
Exceptional
customer service
· Nordstrom
continues to be known as a retailer focused on providing the best customer
service.
Online
shopping options
· Retailers
like J.Crew allow customers to return items purchased online at the stores.
· Shoe
e-tailer Zappos offers customers free returns.
Customization
or special store experiences
· Fashionology
in LA is a retail experience for tweens where they can make their own clothes
in a fun studio
· Steve
Madden’s DIY Shoes, consumers visit the site and can design their own shoes at
about a 25-30% higher mark-up
Value
price points
· Stores
like TopShop, Zara, and H&M offer unique clothing and accessories at value
prices.
Logo-free
apparel and accessories
· Bottega
Veneta: The brand’s signature look is sustainable luxury and has transformed the
once-ailing fashion house into one of Europe’s top selling luxury brands with annual sales
of more than $500m worldwide
I'm sure the fashion industry will be fine because the high end people aren't affected as much as the normal people.
Posted by: Joefucious | Wednesday, 17 September 2008 at 10:34 PM
I'm doing a research topic about how consumers'spending habits have changed based on the recession mentality and would really love to know if the writer of this article could email me some of their sources to use in my paper. PAAAAAAAAAAAAAh-Lease???
Posted by: Sonia | Friday, 24 October 2008 at 05:20 AM